JOURNEY TO IRAN

This day would always be etched in our memory as an important day. That was the day we, Two of my colleagues and myself, were leaving for Iran on an overseas assignment given by our company.

As directed on our tickets, we presented ourselves at the Cochin Airport, Nedumbassery, with much expectations exactly at 8.00 a.m. for the boarding formalities. After x-ray screening of our baggage, we paid the airport fee and moved to the check in counter. Mechanically we went through all the instructions at the immigration and security check, and exchanged whatever Indian Rupees we had for Dubai Dirham. A wad of Indian notes in our pockets would have raised our self-confidence level to greater heights. But strangely, these new notes gave us little confidence. We were not sure whether we got the exact value for our Indian rupee.

A long waiting at the Departure lounge followed. We could see through the glass partition, flights taking off and landing, and wondered at what time we would be asked to proceed to the exit door. At 10 a.m the announcement came, and we queued up to move towards the Emirates Airbus. The giant aircraft was awesome. I wondered whether people standing beside me could hear my heartbeats. I felt as if I were about to board a spaceship that would take me to the outer space.. I tied my seat belt and waited for the plane to take off. Exactly at 10.30 IST, the doors were closed, and No EK3531 roared to life. The giant bird moved slowly backwards, took a turn, gained momentum and flew off from Cochin airport. I said a silent prayer, I don’t know for what. Down below the buildings, roads, cars… all become tiny and miniature, and altogether vanished from the sight. Goodbye my land, goodbye. I mumbled.

For a long time no one spoke. Perhaps my colleagues were having the same experience. Except for the humming noise of the air condition inside the plane there was absolutely no sound. At 11.30 the lunch came, and it created a little activity. The food was excellent. It was a welcome relief from our normal repast. Outside, there was nothing to be seen. Only a sea of clouds. I doubted whether the plane was stationery or moving. Was it standing on a block of clouds? After four hours of uneventful flight the plane landed at Dubai Airport. My watch showed that it was 2.30 in the afternoon. An announcement in the plane said that the time at Dubai airport was 13.00 Hrs. Indian time was 1.30 hours forward.

We had reached another world. At the transit lounge our onward journey tickets were scrutinized. We were again frisked for any hidden weapon, and they told us that our onward flight No. EK977 to Tehran was at 18.15 hours from Terminal No.2, and asked us to remain in the transit area. A restaurant in the transit area was authorized to serve evening Tiffin to us, on production of ticket to Tehran. Spending five hours at Dubai airport posed no problem. We were in a wonderland. We went up and down by escalators, visited all the duty free shops and did some window-shopping. At about 16.30 hrs we sauntered over to the restaurant for Tiffin. On our way to restaurant we noticed a money exchange counter. We were carrying American Express traveler’s dollar cheques. They agreed to encash these TC, but we wanted Iran riyals. To get Iran riyals, first we had to exchange TC to dirham, and dirhams to riyals. It meant paying exchange commission twice. Why squander money? We decided to exchange the TC at Tehran Airport directly to Iran riyals. After the Tiffin we made phone calls to our houses and relatives at Dubai, and buying coca-cola, spending part of the TC exchanged for dirhams.

At 5.00 PM we reached number 2 terminal at Dubai airport to board the Tehran flight. Since we did not go out of the transit lounge there was no necessity to go through the security check again. While waiting at the lounge, we found that all the passengers were wearing suits or blazers; we were the only lot in ordinary dresses. The men were tall, handsome while their women were extremely beautiful and stunning. We tried to pick up conversation with some of our co-passengers but, alas, none of them knew English. We had an odd feeling that we were going to an alien, strange land.

Exactly at 18.15hrs, another airbus of Emirates borne us towards Tehran. It was just two hour flight from Dubai, and as soon as the movement of the plane stabilized, the dinner came. Since we were new to this place, we thought it wise to opt for vegetarian food. Soon it was time for landing. We have arrived at Tehran airport. But instead of leaving for the exit door we found the women passengers, Iranians and foreigners changing their dress to burkha/pardah. Perhaps the atmosphere outside was freezing. We pulled over our sweaters that was available in our hand baggage, and waited for the door to open.

Our watch showed it was 20.25 hrs (Dubai time). The local time was 20.55 p.m. Tehran time was 30mts ahead of Dubai time.

Tehran airport was not as big as Dubai one. The delay in the immigration counter remind us how sluggish and easygoing Iranian officials were. But that did not trouble us. We had seen such indolence in India too.

Outside we could see people waiting with placards to receive the newly arrived passengers. We were expecting to meet Mr. X, , who would take us to our destination. We expectantly looked out to see a placard with our names on it. But we didn’t see any.

The queue was moving at a snail pace. It took nearly two hours before we could come out from the immigration clearance and collect our baggage. The immediate task on our agenda was to get the American Express Traveler’s Cheques exchanged at the nearest bank counter. What they told us, or what we could transpire from them was quite shocking. American Express Traveler’s Cheques cannot be encashed in Iran! Apart from these Traveler’s cheques we had only two 50 Dirham notes with us. We consoled ourselves that Mr. X would find a way. So we moved around nonchalantly towards the main entrance to see whether any Indian was waiving a placard bearing our names. A chilled breeze welcomed us. It was enough to turn us to ice blocks. The cold truth that no one had come to welcome us hit us like a wet towel. We had no foresight to write down Mr. X’s telephone number before we left India. We were really stranded with no cash in our pocket!

We huddled together at a corner of the airport, feeling quite forlorn. We could hear each minutes ticking away menacingly. Each passing moment was laden with mounting anxiety and panic. We never expected to be in such a dilemma. The whole happiness of coming to Iran evaporated. What was we supposed to do now? How long would we wait for our escort? At last we decided to make a telephone call to our company in India. Two of us went to a nearby telephone kiosk ‘manned’ by a huge woman in black purdah. She eyed us curiously. We might have appeared like Lilliputian to her. Fortunately she knew English. Our heart-rending woes might have melted her, for she allowed us to make a phone call to India by accepting Dubai Dirhams. But before we could convey our plight, the line went dead. 50 dirham’s worth of talk-time was quickly over. Our only consolation was that we could at least convey the unenviable situation we were presently in.

Suddenly I found myself very thirsty. It might be because of my inner turmoil or because of the frosty climate, but I felt my mouth dry. I needed a glass of water urgently, or I might faint, I thought. Fortunately, there was a shop at the airport selling aerated water, and I asked for a bottle of mineral water. The shopkeeper looked back at me with blank expression. He knew no English. I tried once again – ‘Mineral Water’. At least he would have heard the word ‘water’ before. No, it didn’t ring a bell to him. I decided the direct symbol language and touched a cola bottle with my finger to show what I needed. He smiled from ear to ear and handed it over to me, telling me something in Persian language. It was now my turn to look blank. Perhaps he was saying how much it cost. I had only one 50 dirham currency note which I gave it to him. I knew it would cover the cost of the cola. He inspected the note twice, and returned it to me as if it was a fake one. Dirham was not an acceptable currency to him. Reluctantly I placed the bottle at the counter and walked back silently feeling dejected. My self confidence had gone. I wondered whether I was destined to die at a foreign land without a drop of water to drink. I stumbled towards where my colleagues were sitting. No one asked me what had happened. They knew. A heavy silence hung in the air. The time was 12:00 midnight. No one spoke. Our faces were grim. I could not help wondering where we have landed ourselves in. Who was to blame for this predicament?

Suddenly we saw a man trotting towards us. Our heart missed a beat. Was he a foe or a friend? We looked at him alarmingly.

He turned out to be Mr. X. Our saviour!

The relief on the faces of my colleagues was inscrutable. At last we were saved. Our happiness was so great that the question of his belated appearance was drowned in it. It was immaterial now. Later we learned that he was bogged down in a snarling traffic jam.

Outside it was freezing. A chill air blew through our body. The car park was just half a kilometer away; yet it appeared as if we would never make it before dawn. The journey through the Tehran streets, now almost empty was pleasant.On our way to car parking area a number of phone calls were coming to the mobile phone of Mr X , all were from India asking about our welfare… Mr. X took us to a flat, where we were lodged for the night.

We were dead tired when we hit the bed. Sleep charmed away all our troubles.

25^th March.

We set out from Tehran at 8.45 am towards Zanjan, our final destination. Zanjan was a mountainous terrain about 325 kilometer north of Tehran. As we sped through a beautiful Express highway, I could not help thinking about the arguments and opposition our people had against coming up of Express Highway in Kerala. In less than 3 hours we had covered 325 km! In fact, on our way, we had even made a stop. Thanks to our driver, we had tea, chocolates and some biscuits for we had no money to buy them.all we had was American Travellors cheques which cannot be exchanged Iran.

Snow fell as we reached Zanjan. The tarred roads appeared painted milky white, and all the vehicles were decorated with ice. And when we got out in front of National Iranian Lead and Zinc Company , it slowly dawned on us that the dress we were wearing would not protect us from the frosty -2^oC climate.

After the initial introduction, we were directed to the company restaurant for lunch. It consisted of white rice, dal, curd and some raw vegetables. We were ravenously hungry and the food tasted scrumptious. We were then taken around the plant.

In the evening, we went to Zanjan town for purchasing some woolen clothes, which we realized was very essential if we wanted to keep our soul and body together. We were housed in residential bungalows called villas. Two of us were in one villa and other two were in another villa adjacent to ours. The Villas were well furnished: three bedrooms with attached bath and bathtub, kitchen, dining room, cots, mattresses, blankets, room heater, fridge, gas stove, utensils … everything one needed in a house. All the rooms were equipped with room heaters and we felt very comfortable. The company authorities were so considerate that we had no need to go out to have our dinner at the company restaurant. Instead it was brought in a security jeep at about 8.30 PM. It had almost identical to what we had for lunch: rice, curd and vegetables curry. But we had pickles that we brought from home. With mango pickles, our dinner turned out to be mouthwatering.

The next day we got up early. There was milk in the fridge and we decided to make Nescafe coffee and for breakfast we had omelets, bread and apples Soon after, the car came from the company and we proceeded to our workplace. Snow continued to fall and it was amusing to see the trees bereft of their leaves, standing like giant scarecrows in white coats.

Since that day till 21^st April, I worked in the laboratory as also in the pilot plant of that company to help them to improve their processes.

Usually we returned from the plant after 7 p.m. We had nothing else to do at the villa except watch TV, which normally broadcast religious programmes or football matches or other sports events. On some days Amitabh Bachhan’s movies dubbed into Iranian language minus the dance sequences were shown. Communicating with the people was the most difficult thing we have encountered. Even educated class did not know English. When we went for shopping, we never knew what was the actual price of the material we bought, for we would spread out all the currency we were carrying and the shopkeeper would take out whatever he desired. Like Japan Yen, Riyal is a very cheap currency. One Indian rupee is equivalent to 190 Iraniyan Riyal. One American dollar is more than 8200 Riyals. For convenience sake they would convert Riyals into Thomans. One hundred Riyal is one Thoman. So instead of saying 100,000 Riyals they would say the cost is 1000 Thomans, although no such Thoman currency note exists.

No common man understand the word ‘car’. For car, they said ‘machines’. Every morning, after getting ready to go to the company, we would dial to the company driver, and speak just three words: ‘villa…Ajmoishka…Machine”. The driver understood it perfectly. He knew that this was a call from the Hindustanis staying at villa and they needed a car to go to Ajmoishka (laboratory) from the villa (Bungalow). In the evening we would reverse it by saying “Ajmoishka…villa…machine”. Immediately after the ‘machine’ comes, we would open the door and greet the driver, Salam Alaikum. It pleased him immensely. After reaching the village we would say khuda Hafeez, and he would wave his hands and go away happily. Once we reach the villa, we never went out because there was not even a single shop within the 8 kilometer radius. Even the matches required for the gas stove was provided by the company. Secondly, only a fool would venture out to the cold from the cozy interior of the villa, controlled by room heaters.

From the villa it would appear as if the whole Iran is surrounded by mountains from all sides, caped with white snow. The place where we lived in Zanjan is a semi mountainous area covering almost 22000 sq.km with a population of just nine lakhs. The area where the factory is located is so remote that the only inhabitants in this area are the residents of 20 to 30 villas owned by the company. The main population of Zanjan lived 8 km away in Zanjan town. Zanjan is famous for carpets, dry fruits and Saffron. Carpets are extensively made in this place and exported. These carpets are very costly, for they use gold and silver threads to give the carpets a magnificent appearance. More than twelve varieties of dry fruits are available at Zanjan ; some of them are very tasty and sweet. Saffron and woolen clothes are also available, but saffron is comparatively costly.

A translator was assigned to us by the company. She was a 25 year old lady, a Russian descendant settled in Iran. Without her help we could not have gone far. But by our .

After two weeks of hectic job in the laboratory, we decided to avail a day off. One mini bus was arranged by the company, all of us went on a sight seeing trip. The outside temperature at that time was around 10 ⁰ c

. We visited Sultania Dome first. This magnificent Dome was too big that it is the third largest historical building in the world. This was constructed by Sultan Mohamed Khodabandeh sometime in the 13^th century. Since the Dome was under renovation, we could not spent much time there. We then proceeded to Katlekhour cave, situated 163 km away from Zanjan town. For the first time, we could see so many Iranian women on our way. From head to foot they covered themselves with big black clothes, exposing only face and palms. They looked however, very sad. Perhaps they were a suppressed lot. We were told that Iranian women are not supposed to dance or sing. They cannot even go out to see a football match outside. Totally isolated life, yet it surprised me to see them working in the offices and factories. Most of the women are well educated than men. Iranian women are most beautiful. They were pure white with jet black hair.

We reached Khatlekhour cave around 2 p.m, and before entering the cave, we had some snacks and cola for lunch. Katlekhour cave is located at the north east of the Zanjan province. From geologist point of view it is one of worlds best tourist attractions. One guide was leading us with other tourists. The cave is inside a mountain, and it is formed of three floors having subsidiary tunnels, innumerable stalagmite with splendid pillars at the main pathways. The cave is made of limestones and there were different shaped structures hanging from the roof of the cave. Due to the presence of some other elements as impurities, limestone lanterns hanging from the roof of the cave gave out different color lights. These lanterns were made from transparent crystals of different shape and size.

Out of the three floors of the cave, the bottom floor is completely filled with water with wild coral like growths. The length of the cave was approx. 30 km, out of which only 2.5 km is accessible to tourist. Low lights were provided in the cave to preserve its natural beauty.

As we advanced in the cave we could see several structures of limestone growths in different shapes. Each location is so named to reveal the shape of the limestone structure to be found there, like Elephant Foot, Lion Paw, Bride and Groom, etc. Crystal clear water could also be seen at some places. Different colour transparent lantern like structures hanging from the roof was the main attraction.

At one place a mummy was also seen. It was said to be the body of a man who was entrapped in the cave several hundred years ago. It gave an eerie feeling. The dusk was fast approaching and the shadows were playing havoc. We wanted to get out fast. At about 4 pm, we came out of the cave, and returned to Zanjan. We reached Zanjan at about 7 30 pm .

On 20^th April the company arranged a trip to Zanjan city for shopping. This time our translator also accompanied us. This time we knew the exact price for dry fruits and chocolates. Zanjan was a beautiful small city, neat and clean. There were many shops selling jewelry, textiles, dry fruits, fancy items, cutlery, furniture, vegetables etc. The ladies costumes that I saw hung in the shops were so gorgeous and stylish that it fascinated me. I had never seen any woman in that attire ever since coming to Iran. I could not resist from asking our translator.

Her reply was immediate: “Do you think that we wear those black dresses always? No, we wear colourful modern dresses inside our houses.” But her face gave away her true feelings; she looked sad and melancholy.

We returned about 1 pm, to the laboratory. 21^st April was our last day in the laboratory.

On 21^st of April, we prepared ourselves to return to India after thirty days of sojourn in Iran. On that morning we went to ythe company to say good byes to our friends there. We did not forget to give some small gift articles that we had brought with us to the Iranian employees who had helped us do the laboratories studies. We also distributed some Indian Agarbathy incense packs, few pens, Pears soap, and Indian tea. We had lunch at the canteen with the Unit Chief and R&D Chief . They gave sweet packets to all of us as token present from their company . At about 2 30 pm, we boarded a taxi to Tehran Airport. Our assignment at Iran was complete.

We reached Tehran Airport at about 5 00 pm. Our flight to Dubai was scheduled at 10:15 pm. Till 7.00 pm we just moved around to see the Airport. At about 7.45, our CMD arrived at the Airport We went and greeted them. Our CMD was also traveling in the same flight to Dubai. We were overwhelmed the way he spoke to us, without formalities, without any barriers. He never acted as CMD and we, his employees. His simplicity, his guilelessness, his concern for our welfare… all moved us. He enquired whether we have any plan to see Dubai. We said we would be happy to break the journey and see Dubai. He encouraged us to break the journey to enjoy our brief stay at Dubai.

At about 8 pm, we went into the check in area, and from there to the economy class waiting lounge. At 10 30, the Emirates flight noEK 0970 took off with us to Dubai. We found that those ladies who had come to Tehran Airport in pardah/ burkha were now wearing modern dress in the flight. Interestingly there was a Brahmin lady from India , who came with her husband, among the burkha clad ladies.

Our plane reached Dubai airport at about 12 midnight. From the sky itself Dubai city looked beautiful. We had never seen such a beautiful illumination before. It was splendid. Then came the announcement of our landing at Dubai. Dubai time was 11.30 p.m. - 30 minutes behind Iran time. After getting out of the plane, we went straight to the transit visa counter. It was easy to locate the counter since on our onward journey we had spent five hours at the same airport. By 11.45 p.m we were at the counter.. our relatives who had come to receive us also waiting outside the airport. We got the transit visa at about 4 30 am. Our 5 hours waiting was finally over.

When we came out I was sorry for my son in law, daughter and their three year old son for having to wait for me for more than 5 hours. I felt wretched as soon as I took my grandson in my arms for the child looked so weary without any sleep. I could have hired a taxi and went to their residence without disturbing their sleep. .

At Dubai, we visited many places and did some shopping. . On 24^th morning at 1 am I was back at Dubai airport. My Cochin flight was at 3.35 am.

Sharp at 3 35 am flight no.EK 530 took off from Dubai airport to Cochin, The Emirates flight was most enjoyable

At about 4 am breakfast was supplied, and drinks to those who wanted. I was wondering who would consume liquor at 4 am. To my surprise 75% of the male passengers gulped down brandy, whisky, Becardy…at that odd hour without any hesitation. When I asked for a tea, the airhostess smiled as if I was an odd man out in that coterie of drunkards.. While others were sipping their drinks, I just sat there idiotically looking at them. The airhostess was busy supplying drinks.

After sometime, she approached me again and asked whether I needed anything. Though I politely denied with a ‘no, thank you’, she came back with a glass of fruit juice and gave it to me. It was about 5 45 a.m.

At sharp 7 30 am the plane landed at Nedumbassery airport. “It is 9.00 a.m. in Cochin”, the announcer said. We looked at our watch: it showed just 7.30. Once again we moved the needs to match the local time. After the emigration clearance and custom check, I moved to where my wife and son were waiting outside.

At last I was back home, after a month long stay abroad. My happiness was profound. I wished someone had said, Welcome Home, Sasi, Welcome!